“Eating is an agricultural act,” reads the menu at Duane Sorenson’s Italian stunner, Ava Gene’s. Order everything from the contorni (veggies and sides) menu so you can taste the kitchen’s remarkable takes on fresh regional vegetables, along with a few judiciously sauced fresh pastas and some main dishes—rosy lamb shoulder, maybe, or a crisply seared halibut fillet atop three-bean salad. Whatever you get, plan to share: You’ll want to taste as many of these ethereal preparations as possible."